The island of Hvar is the queen of the all Dalmatian islands. Someone described Hvar as "crystal blue sea, big green hills, clean air and lots of old stone," but it doesn't do justice to the island which is listed as one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world. 

Hvar has a mild climate of warm winters and pleasant summers and it enjoys the reputation of the sunniest island in the Adriatic. It is said (although not confirmed) that hotels here will offer their guests a 50% discount for rainy days.

 

Due to its strategic location, the town of Hvar has been an important seaport since the antiquity. At the time of the Illyrians, around 300 BC, the town has developed around the main square, then north of the square in the 13th century and then circling to the south of the square in the 15th century. The imposing castle hovers above the fluid blend of grey stone and orange cascading roofs. The remains of walls built by a long list of invaders descend towards the wide promenade edging the brilliant sapphire sea and the quaint fishing harbor. Marble streets open up to one of the largest squares in Dalmatia, Trg Sveti Stjepana presided over by the Cathedral of St. Stephen and the Renaissance theatre. The restaurants serve locally grown, organic produce, elegant boutiques sell unusual souvenirs, and a vibrant nightlife pulsates amidst the medieval streets of Hvar Town. 

 

Hvar Town may be the most beautiful town on the island, but the island's true character is revealed in a smattering of small villages, dotting the coast or nestled in the lush interior. There are the gently rolling hills painted a brilliant purple by the lavender flowers, lush vineyards and ancient olive trees nestling at the foot of ragged mountains, stunning beaches with tiny inlets and secluded coves. You can come across nuns from the Benedictine monastery, practicing the unique craft of making lace from the threads of agave leaves or stumble into one of the archeological sites. At a Neolithic archeological site near Hvar Town, archeologists found unique ceramics decorated with spiral ornaments in red, yellow, brown and white. Since such ornaments and engraving methods have not been found anywhere else, this kind of Neolithic art has been named "hvarska kultura" (Hvar's Culture).

 

At sundown, you may stroll up one of the old lanes leading from the square. It will take you to another lane which, parallel to the sea shore and high above the others offers an impossible view over Hvar Town, secluded strands of white sand, pine groves and lavender fields, exotic cliffs in the south and in the distance, the surreal Pakelni Archipelago.

Hvar Town may have the Venetian sophistication, but the island's true character is revealed in a smattering of small villages, dotting the coast or nestled in the lush interior and in the spirit of the Hvar people. 

Hvar's Benedictine nuns, for example, practice a unique craft producing the most intricate lace using the threads of agave leaves. However, the best known folk product on the island is the "Queen's Wash". Queen's Wash is pure, distilled rosemary oil, and it has been used on the island for centuries. Mass production of rosemary began at the end of the 17th century, and in the 19th century there was even a Rosemary Cooperative in the village of Grablje. This was when travel writers began reporting on the health properties of Hvar's rosemary and the Queen's Wash. Read the 1796 panegyric to rosemary from the archives of the Hektorovic family in Stari Grad:

 

"We cook the leaves in pure white wine and then we clean our face, eyebrows and beard with it and then our hair will never fall out but it will grow even more, and the face will remain bright... Leaves in the bed will scare away bad dreams... It drives away harmful insects, removes the swelling of legs... If you plant it on your land, your fruits will be multiplied, and all the region will enjoy delight." *

 

The people of Hvar also produce Hvar Cakes. These are traditional patties in which the essential components are saffron, honey and coriander. A Hvar Cake diluted in spring water makes 100% effective love potions!

 

* According to modern medicine, rosemary boosts the central nervous system, clears respiratory congestion, eases arthritis and sore muscles, has a tightening effect on the skin, reduces bloating and puffiness and stimulates hair growth. It has analgesic, antidepressant, astringent, digestive, diuretic, stimulant and tonic properties.

Hvar Island boasts 2,718 hours of sunshine a year, making it Croatia's sunniest island and the queen among the Dalmatian islands. Someone described Hvar as "crystal blue sea, big green hills, clean air and lots of old stone," but that doesn't do justice to one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world. 

The island is extraordinarily green and lush, covered in lavender and rosemary, and with coastline indented with innumerable rocky coves with impossibly clear water. Hvar Town is a collection of narrow, winding streets, carved in white stone and with surprising, intricate sculptures around each corner. Close to town and easily reached by excursion boats are the surreal, pine-wooded Pakleni Islands with secluded beaches, private coves and good snorkeling. 

As the island which claims the most sunny days in all of the Adriatic Sea, Hvar has an official Sunshine Policy. If the day is cloudy, the hotels offer 15% off their prices, and if it rains, the prices are cut in half. At least that's what everyone is saying. We couldn't check this policy because every time we were on Hvar it was sunny, breezy and the air was heavily scented with pines and lemons.